Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela Information

The world of fashion has its share of unconventional individuals but none more so than Belgian designer, Martin Margiela. His early life followed a safe enough route, graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1980. This institution had gained fame as the launching pad of the Antwerp Six, a group of influential designers who put the city on the fashion map. After graduation, he worked in the fashion industry as a freelance designer until Jean Paul Gaultier hired him in 1985. He worked with the talented Frenchman for two years and then started his own label, putting on his first show in 1988.

Fashion critics and loyal followers alike await each collection with eager anticipation, as one can never predict what MartinMargiela will do next. The clothes receive less promotion than the work of other label owners due to Margiela's reticence for personal publicity. He remains something of an enigma, as he won't allow himself to be photographed and will only submit to interviews if done by fax machine. This plea for anonymousness even extends to the clothes, as they go out with a blank label rather than the usual custom of having the designer's name.

Martin Margiela Tips

In addition, the designer is known for some of his eccentric ways of presenting the clothes and for the unusual design of the collections. He has used marionettes instead of models and placed runway shows in outrageous locations such as vacant lots. The collections tend to follow themes, appalling some traditionalists and being praised by others for their inventiveness. MartinMargiela designs have included exposed stitching, visible hems, the tailor's chalk marks and shoulder pads on the outside of the garment. Other shows have displayed broken dishes and some sort of mold.

In 1997, the Hermes brand commissioned the designer to produce a line of ready to wear for women. This was a surprise to observers of the industry but the result was an unexpected conventional collection that Hermes was very pleased with.

The Photoprint Collection was an example of the more individual style of Martin Margiela, when he designed clothes from a crepe material that were printed with pictures, including fur coats. The Flat Collection was designed to be very practical. The armholes and sleeves were positioned in order for the clothes to lie flat when being stored or packed. Future collections will go on to divide the audience and the photographers will continue to try to snap him at last.